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Cremona. Siamo arrivati quasi in fondo. Grazie a tutte le persone che ci hanno dato una mano lungo questo viaggio tra fiume e anima, alla scoperta anche inconsapevole di cosa c sotto alla crosta della Padania. Scivolando in bicicletta sul ponte di ferro che collega la sponda piacentina a Cremona mi sono passati davanti agli occhi quasi dieci giorni di Po, lunghi di contraddizioni, nei paesaggi, negli uomini e nelle donne, nei sapori, nei sogni che qui sono nati e in quelli che sono annegati col passare del tempo. Sotto al ponte il fiume gonfio dacqua, tanta, muscoloso e potente. Lacqua che ci ha impedito, marinai improvvisati, di terminare il viaggio con la pilotina Random, la barca che con amicizia e fatica ci stata messa a disposizione dallassociazione culturale Random di Pizzigghettone, un gruppo di persone che pi di altre hanno capito il senso di questo viaggio: in barca, in bicicletta, a piedi, in treno, come torneremo in quel di Rimini dopodomani sera, dopo aver setacciato Cremona, i suoi dintorni e Isola Serafini, una sorta di enclave di terra circondata dal fiume che rappresenta il punto pi a monte della nostra ricerca, dove il Po riceve le acque dellAdda (questo il legame culturale pi forte di Pizzighettone, che sta sullAdda, con il Po e con il nostro viaggio).
Beh, sul ponte di ferro mi sono girato e dietro ho visto la storia, la civilt fluviale scomparire senza neppure accorgersi, cancellata dalle promesse non mantenute della modernit, dallavvento della ruota, come dice Massimo Spigaroli, produttore di Culatello di Zibello e custode di una fluvialit antica, resa attuale, vissuta con consapevolezza contemporanea. Quando si dice che la cultura passa, anche, attraverso la tavola, lagricoltura, le produzioni territoriali, io intendo questo: uomini consapevoli della propria storia e del proprio ruolo nellimmaginare un mondo migliore, nel senso che piace di pi a chi lo persegue e lo propone, ma anche nel senso che pu essere migliore per tutti. Massimo ci ha dato questa lettura: il fiume ha iniziato a morire quando si sono cominciate a trasportare le cose lungo le strade, quando sono arrivate le auto. Certo, hanno dato una mano lindustrializzazione, linquinamento, il mito della citt e del lavoro sicuro, ma la colpa delle auto. cambiato il punto di vista: si cominciato a guardare alla strada e non pi al fiume.
E oggi? E domani? Riuscire a dare un senso a quello che rimasto, ai luoghi, allambiente, alla natura, un valore allagricoltura autentica, buona, ai grandi prodotti che nascono dal fiume e dal clima come il Culatello di Zibello. Ne abbiamo assaggiato uno di maiale nero parmigiano stagionato 29 mesi dal sapore che sembrava una passeggiata nella golena dopo la pioggia, dal profumo del tempo che muta, della nebbia dinverno, dellafa che addensa laria destate... Tutto in una fetta di maiale ricca della dolcezza del tempo. Eccolo il miracolo del fiume che ha salvato angoli da raccontare, luoghi e sapori per viaggiatori alla ricerca di un altro punto di vista, sul mondo. Viaggiatori fluviali, navigatori, ciclisti. Viaggiatori, non turisti.
In bicicletta come in barca. Gli strumenti redatti con tanta prosopopea sono inutili. Come le carte nautiche segnalano approdi e distributori fantasma, le cartine delle piste ciclabili sono poco chiare, in alcuni casi approssimative e spacciano per ciclabili delle specie di camionabili arginali senza alcuna manutenzione. La segnaletica? Soprassediamo. Il fiume, il viaggio, in barca, in bicicletta, spesso (non sempre, non dappertutto) una grande e solitaria bugia, da strombazzare ai convegni, da vendere in campagna elettorale. Cercando di seguire largine piacentino, perdendomi tra le belle ciliegie di Villanova dArda, mi sono chiesto se chi realizza le cartine delle ciclabili regionali sia mai andato in bicicletta e se ci sia andato lungo le strade che ha disegnato. Sembra di vivere in un mondo per sentito dire.
La in fondo erano i pioppi e il grande fiume e, nel cielo immenso, cerano tutte le mie favole, questo il Po del Mondo Piccolo di Giovannino Guareschi. Non importa se antiche e moderne, ma su queste acque scorrono le favole, quelle che in questi giorni abbiamo saputo disegnare, raccogliere, raccontare forse. Il ponte di ferro ci ha portati a Cremona.
Adesso, a Cremona, occorre trovare il modo di riportarci anche Random, la barca, ma questa unaltra storia. E Stefano Rossini? Potete leggerlo qui in una interpretazione che strappa ben pi di un sorriso, o guardarlo in questo scontro tra titani della musica: Verdi versus Rossini, nella piazza di Busseto, paesino parmigiano che vive nel culto del musicista (come Gualtieri del pittore Ligabue e Brescello dei film di don Camillo e Peppone...).
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