03.06.07
La festa della Repubblica, le rane turche e Antonio Ligabue
Guastalla, Reggio Emilia. Anche se scrivo all’una di notte oggi è ancora il 2 giugno, la festa della Repubblica. Nonno Tommaso Marziani, classe 1891, capostazione socialista, per età tra quelli che la Repubblica l’hanno voluta e costruita col loro lavoro, sarebbe morto di crepacuore di fronte alla desolazione della stazione di Pegognaga, linea Ferrara-Suzzara, che definire squallida e fatiscente è come farle un complimento. Un senso di vuoto ti esplode tra la sporcizia, le oscenità scritte sui muri e sui sedili, la sala d’attesa dalle mura scrostate, il laconico e malinconico scorrere delle comunicazioni appese, degli orari cadenti. Inutile dire che i treni passano di tanto in tanto, molto in tanto: vecchie motrici su unici binari che trasportano un mondo che si muove con passi di una provincia che non sempre affascina.
Abbiamo lasciato anche le bici, a venti chilometri dalla barca. Piove sempre. Ma questo non ci ha impedito di pranzare sull’Enza, quasi alla confluenza con il Po, in una vecchia osteria fluviale, la trattoria Lido Enza, con tanto di cannucce alle pareti, proprio come un vecchio capanno. Cappelletti, lasagne, tortelli, tutto nel segno della migliore tradizione e poi il fritto di fiume: rane, pesci gatto e pescetti che chiamano psola. Anche qui le rane vengono dalla Turchia e il resto dal lago Trasimeno in Umbria. È bello però leggere la frase forse più famosa di Luigi Veronelli: “il peggior vino del contadino e meglio di qualsiasi vino dell’industria”. E i Lambrusco proposti sono tutti fermentanti in bottiglia, una addirittura è fatto con l’uva Fogarina, quella della canzoncina.
Brescello è un paese che vive sul mito di don Camillo e Peppone, non proprio dei personaggi dello scrittore Giovannino Guareschi, ma dei film con Fernandel e Gino Cervi. Dalla torta di Peppone (ovviamente rossa), alle statue dei due attori nella piazza principale, fino al museo gestito dalla pro loco tutto riporta alle vecchie pellicole con prete in tonaca e il sindaco coi baffoni. Persino Luigi Comencini ne ha girato uno di questi film: “Il compagno don Camillo”. Manifesti in bianco e nero che fanno il paio con il marchio storico, bellissimo, della golosa Spongata Benelli, dolce ripieno di noci, mandorle, uvetta e spezie prodotto con la stessa gustosa ricetta dal 1863.
A Gualtieri, invece, vivono di un altro mito, mal sopportato in vita: Ligabue, Antonio, il pittore. Quello che a lungo è stato definito naif e adesso tutti considerano un “espressionista tragico”. Pittore di golena e di pazzia che quando raggiunge la notorietà e un poco di benessere investe i soldi in moto Guzzi ed automobili. Le ama tanto, le auto, che qui si racconta che licenziò l’autista: ingrassato e Ligabue temeva potesse sfondare i sedili della macchina. Con le moto girava per Gualtieri con i quadri appesi sulla schiena, in piazza, a mostrare a tutti di cosa era capace. È forse la personalità più potente che si sente emergere da questa golena piovosa, dove il fiume e la natura sono tante cose, a volte dure, selvagge, selvatiche, contraddittorie.
Cena nel porto di Boretto, sulla motonave Stradivari gestita da Giuliano Landini, campione mondiale di motonautica negli Ottanta e Novanta. Cucina legata al fiume e al territorio: su tutto l’impareggiabile risotto all’anguilla affumicata, fumo e serpente di mare avvinghiati attorno al vialone nano, esplosione gustativa con il naso alla cucina del nord Europa e lo sgranarsi del riso veronese. Un piatto che da solo vale il viaggio.
Domani, 3 giugno, andiamo a caccia di aceto balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia e di altre atmosfere padane, poi risaliamo il fiume, con tutti i mezzi possibili, fino alle terre del culatello.
Se vuoi leggere questo viaggio visto da Stefano Rossini clicca qui.
Posted by mic.marziani at 03.06.07 01:20
Leggendo anche il post di Stefano, ho subito pensato, a costo di passare per campanilista: "Che differenza, l'accoglienza e il sorriso della Romagna..."
Sono d'accordo sul "facci un libro".
Bon viaz
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