Polesella, Rovigo. I calcoli li abbiamo sbagliati tutti: sui tempi, sul tempo (certe raffiche ad alzare onde di fronte a Crispino), sulla mitologia padana. Tributo di riconoscenza all’Arni, che si occupa della navigazione fluviale: la segnaletica è ineccepibile, ci siamo incagliati, di poco, una sola volta. Basta imparare i colori delle boe e seguire i rombi. In più viaggiano coi motoscafi per monitorare il fiume, li vedi e ti senti sicuro. Per il resto il Po è il contrario di quello che era nel nostro immaginario: gli attracchi non ci sono, sono mal tenuti, sono pieni di barchette anche semi affondate, alcuni sono frequentati da persone dei paesi dell’est a caccia di pesci siluro, facce non sempre rassicuranti... Poi magari siamo noi che ci sentiano un po’ insicuri, ma è un mondo inatteso. Fatto di agglomerati di case che sembrano deserte come Villanova Marchesana, senza anime vive, con i negozi sprangati, pochi anziani per strada, l’unico bar ha la barista cinese che sorride e parla e fa il caffé come si deve in mezzo a neon azzurri che ricordani i biliardi degli anni Settanta. Un altro mondo. E colpisce che in questo mondo altro ci siano soprattutto persone che vengono da paesi diversi: sto scrivendo nel più bel nucleo di casette di pescatori ristrutturate, a Polesella, un gioiello di buon gusto. È opera di pescatori tedeschi: una struttura per persone che vengono da Austria, Svizzera e Germania a pescare, si chiama Angeln und Kultur, perché i tedeschi quando vengono a pescare vanno anche a visitare Ferrara e Venezia con i suoi monumenti. Di fronte a Ro Ferrarese c’è una struttura turistica semichiusa, un progetto per rievocare Riccardo Bacchelli e il suo Mulino del Po. È triste, perché nessuno queste cose le fa funzionare. Solo i tedeschi, per la pesca al siluro. E solo i pescatori frequentano il fiume: se ne vedono a decine di ogni età lungo le rive, ultime sentinelle di un mondo che scompare, che porta a galla cozze giganti arrivata da chissà dove e uccelli morti. Poi arrivi all’approdo giusto, come quello di Polesella, dove c’è gente che il Po lo ama e allora capisci che c’è qualcuno, qualcosa che testimonia la vita del fiume. Gli appuntamenti gli abbiamo persi tutti, cause piogge battenti e vento forte. Per essere un viaggio anche gastronomico non c’è niente di peggio: siamo digiuni da stamattina e qui, tra le case dei pescatori tedeschi, c’è molta ospitalità, ma temo, mentre scrivo, nulla da mangiare. Domani si comincia a risalire, il fiume e forse la china alimentare: si va verso le terre della salama da sugo. Stasera niente foto, sarebbero quelle di due disperati in un mare fluviale in tempesta, per oggi così lontano dal mito. Da tutti i miti.
Posted by mic.marziani at 28.05.07 20:47bello però questo sprazzo di civiltà fra angoli di mondo sgangherato, peccato che a rappresentarla,questa civiltà, nel bel paesino di cui racconti, non siano degli italiani ma dei teutonici...
Posted by: stefania +++++ at 28.05.07 21:10In fondo, il viaggio è proprio questo...non è vero Michele? Partire per cercare un mondo e trovarne un altro, ugualmente intenso ma profondamente diverso. La vicenda di Marco Polo insegna. E lui, di viaggi, se ne intendeva. In bocca al lupo per domani e non mi ti far leggere che non mangi, ok? :)
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