Si discuteva di vini a Dogliani, a tavola, al goloso Verso del Ghiottone, ristorante giovane e ricco di sorprese, in tavola e anche in cantina. La discussione girava intorno al fatto che di vini ce ne sono tanti ben fatti, magari pure piacevoli, ma assolutamente inutili tanto rappresentano un'idea del vino lontana, lontanissima, dall'uva, dal territorio, dalla vigna. Vini muscolosi, pompati, legnati, barricati, concetrati, eccessivi, profumatissimi degli stessi profumi. Bottiglie corrette, senza difetti, ma sostanzialmente inutili, perché dopo averle bevute nella nostra vita non cambia nulla, non sappiamo qualcosa di più, non ci siamo messi a sognare, non ci si è accesa nessuna lampadina, non ci è rimasto ricordo, piacevolezza, emozione. Abbiamo consumato, non bevuto. E le carte dei vini dei ristoranti sono strapiene di vini inutili, tanto non sono i vignaioli a fare il mercato, ho scoperto, ma i grossisti, i distributori. Colpa anche della pigrizia di ristoranti ed enoteche e della non voglia di chi beve di assaggiare etichette diverse da quelle note, famose, segnalate, conosciute. Al contrario un po' dappertutto si trovano vini buoni, golosi, piacevoli, che parlano, raccontano (anche attraverso qualche difetto che li rende più interessanti), spettegolano al naso e al palato. Vini da bere a secchi, da non smettere mai, da stappare una bottiglia dietro l'altra, che siano bottiglie importanti e imponenti o semplici e beverine. Ecco, i vini da bere a secchi sono il contrario dei vini inutili. Tra le cose più emozionanti che ho assaggiato negli ultimi tempi c'è un rosso spettacolare per quanto è semplice, scontroso, freschissimo, con un'acidità che si arrampica sui monti, quelli della Val Susa da dove viene il rosso Valsusa Avanà di Sibille realizzato con uve Avanà in purezza. E come non provare un fremito infantile di fronte all'eleganza del ligure Pigato Le Russeghine 2005? Bianco prodotto dell'azienda agricola Bruna è un vino di una mineralità incredibile per un Pigato e poi avvolge in un concerto di erba, fiori, peperoni e di gomma... Quella gomma, quell'elastico mi riporta nella vecchia cartoleria dove compravo quaderni e matite ad ogni autunno prima della scuola. Rimanevo affascinato dagli odori, così come accade davanti a questo bianco buono, buonissimo. E che meraviglia i lamponi esplosivi, la stoffa avvolgente, fustagno diremmo, del Nebbiolo 2001 di Barale, sembra un gentiluomo di campagna, un Barolo senza il vestito della festa, anzi no, ci sono tanti Barolo che solo vagamente sembrano questo rosso, profondo e contadino. Ultima segnalazione per un vino incredibile dell'azienda Cefalicchio di Canosa di Puglia: il rosato Ponte della Lama 2005, fresco, morbido, potente, vellutato, a guardarlo nel bicchiere più che un rosato sembra un campo di ciclamini. Da aprirlo e finirlo, seduti davanti al mare, scrivendo poesie.
Lo sottoscrivo... mi ricordi Pasolini nel suo lavoro per il canzoniere italiano. E come dice Vasco "le mie canzoni nascono da sole
vengono fuori già con le parole", perchè forzare mai un vino? perchè forzare o perfezionare l'espressione della natura quando parla del suo territorio? un abbraccio
Nebbiolo 2001 di Barale. Bevuto ieri all'osteria Roma vicino a Fossano con Davide e Nicola. Davvero un vino sorprendente E da bere a secchi, se non fosse per i 300 kilometri di rientro e le 10 foto da appendere diritte...Un grande vino.
Posted by: Michele at 07.09.06 15:20Ciao Michele, quanto sono d'accordo con te ! Ho bevuto anch'io di recente l'Avanà di Sibille e ne ho scritto qui :
http://www.tigulliovino.it/blog/2006/08/ciao.html
Ciao, Fil.
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