Appunti di Viaggio: I "tappi" del mio viaggio

21.03.06

I "tappi" del mio viaggio

Ho legato le tappe di questi giorni alle bottiglie. Alla Torre di Romagnano Sesia dove si mangia sempre bene ho bevuto Ghemme del 1996 dei fratelli Paolo e Antonello Rovellotti. E ho volato col naso tra i profumi di un vino che adesso, a dieci anni dalla vendemmia, finalmente si rivela. Ho cenato la sera dopo alla Trattoria Roma (della serata racconta assai meglio Lorenzo di Pianogrillo, leggetelo pure qui) e mi sono lasciato sedurre dal salame cuneese di Beppe Dho. Non si sappia in giro per il Piemonte, ma coi formaggi di Langa ho bevuto la grandiosa Malvasia di Francesco Fenech che viene da Salina, nelle isole Eolie. Poi il giorno dopo ho incontrato Luciano Sandrone e ho passato una bella giornata di chiacchiere sul vino, sulla vita e sui "cannubi" che sono porzioni di colline in quel di Barolo. Luciano Sandrone è uno dei signori del Barolo, dei grandi produttori famosi nel mondo, ma non mi ha conquistato con il vino dei re (sarebbe stato troppo facile!), ma con un umile Dolcetto d'Alba, vino di rara pulizia. Pure elegante che detto di un Dolcetto a volte fa un po' a pugni. Poi sono tornato a Milano con la testa un po' confusa tra bottiglie e ho fatto un altro incontro di quelli che non si dimenticano: Il Centovigne, vino da tavola rosso prodotto a Cossato, nel Biellese, da Magda Zago. Una vera "chicca", sia perché così gli amici chiamano Magda, sia perché il vino, pressoché ignoto e realizzato con uve Nebbiolo e altri vitigni da vigne vecchie è uno spettacolo: è vino d'annata, fresco, che ha visto solo acciaio e non legno, profuma di lamponi, è un po' scorbutico, ma ghiotto, minerale, leggiadro che ne berresti a litri. Intanto Franco Ziliani, penna velenosa intinta nel vino, ha aperto Vinoalvino, un nuovo blog enologico nella scuderia di Antonio Tombolini (dove voglio segnalare anche il bel blog di Adriano Liloni che va a scovare prodotti che neppur vien da pensare che esistano...), mentre Massimo Bernardi ha lasciato Peperosso per andare, dicono, al Gambero Rosso. Incredibile, sembra quasi il calciomercato. E pensare che sono solo blog. Stasera, per rimanere in tema, di vini, non di calcio, né di blog, stappo un Sangiovese Beato Enrico che berlo a Milano fa pure esotico. Domani sera a cena da Cracco. Tra un bicchiere e l'altro ho letto Questa storia di Alessandro Baricco. Dell'autore mi verrebbero da fare le battutine che tanto non sopporta, ma il libro, anzi la storia, ti trascina con sé.

Nella foto di Davide Dutto, sono assieme a Luciano Sandrone sul terrazzo della cantina. Alle spalle il vigneto Cannubi Boschis, il famoso cru di Barolo .

Posted by mic.marziani at 21.03.06 21:12

Comments

In un tempo lontano disegnai la grafica di un bel giornalino, proprio bello e, per l'epoca, molto all'avanguardia. Si chiamava Panealpane, un'invenzione di Bruno Rosati, il fondatore del mitico "Canestro" capostipite del biologico-buono a Roma.

Posted by: mic.i at 21.03.06 23:54

L'unico sentimento che mi pervade è, confesso, l'invidia: ti ricordassi almeno di portarti appresso anche le etichette, oltre ai tappi.
Nino

Posted by: Nino Giammetta at 23.03.06 13:13

ciao Michele ti invito rimbalzato da muccapazza a un meme sui 10 personaggi del mondo del cibo vai al http://www.ilgastronomoriluttante.splinder.com/post/7456790#more-7456790

Posted by: happycook at 25.03.06 11:52

A parte che, se prima ti invidiavo, adesso che vivo a Dublino, due volte... ;) mi spieghi le seguenti due frasi che, sara' la Guinness alla spina, mi risultano astruse? Ti abbraccio forte.

"sia perché così gli amici chiamano Magda"

"che ha visto solo acciaio e non legno" - non dovrebbe essere il contrario? Visto che sono un neofita, mi rimetto a te. :-D

Posted by: wolverine at 25.03.06 23:14

ostia!! un centovigne a Cossato!(mia madre e' nata sulla casa piu' vecchia costruita sullo stresa) the world is so little!
:-O))

Posted by: liloni adriano at 26.03.06 01:37

Risposte per Massimo che sta a Dublino e pure io adesso un po' lo invidio (della serie l'erba del vicino, eccetera).
1) - Chicca la chiamano. Gli amici chiamano Magda "Chicca", è il suo soprannome.
2) - C'è una polemica, ciclicamente più o meno furiosa sull'abuso delle botti di legno nell'affinamento del vino. In particolare la questione riguarda l'abuso di piccole botti dette barrique che tendono ad uniformare il gusto del vino. Specie se usate male. I vini giovani, di pronta beva, non vogliono passaggi nelle botti di legno, ma se ne stanno in fusti d'acciaio e poi in bottiglia. Da qui la frase.

Posted by: Michele Marziani at 26.03.06 18:40

Grazie. Adesso e' chiarissimo. In questo caso, la mia e' per forza piu' verde! :-D
Quando passerai di qui, sarai il benvenuto. ;)
Ti abbraccio.

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