Non amo i bagordi natalizi, ma la sobrietà di certi sapori d'inverno che incantano quasi con nulla. La differenza tra un triste pesce d'allevamento, una spigola ad esempio, e un plebeo ma ruspante abitante marino come il muggine, prorompe in questa ricetta di abissale semplicità che permette di gustare un capolavoro del mare. Il muggine o cefalo è pesce dalle carni gustose se pescato in mare aperto o in laguna (e state pur certi che un buon pescivendolo quelli “cattivi” di porto, non ve li vende...). Prendete un pesce di un chilo di peso, evisceratelo badando di togliere anche la pellicina scura che ricopre le carni, squamatelo e adagiatelo in una teglia da forno nella quale avrete messo uno spesso strato di sale grosso. Ricoprite il pesce di sale (diciamo che per un pesce da 1 kg, di sale ce ne vuole almeno altrettanto) e mettete in forno ben caldo – 200/220° - per circa 40 minuti. Rompete la crosta di sale. Mettete la polpa che ben si staccherà dalle lische in un piatto da portata, spolverate di pepe e irrorate con olio extravergine d’oliva, di quello intenso, nuovo, fresco della campagna olearia appena conclusa. Stupefacente, quest'anno, l'ottimo olio di Vicopisano. In alto i calici con il grande Verdicchio Villa Bucci, minerale, fresco, possente, impagabile.
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