Appunti di Viaggio: Sul Panfilo frittelle di cavolo e Dorellino

08.02.05

Sul Panfilo frittelle di cavolo e Dorellino

Nella vecchia casa di ringhiera dove abito a Milano c'è il pavimento in legno ad assi che sembrano di mare, parquet norvegese si chiama. E siccome il microappartamente sta in una via chiamata Panfilo Castaldi (tipografo, per i curiosi, contestò a Gutenberg l'invenzione della stampa...), la stanzetta che fa da ufficio, camera e sala da pranzo la chiamo Panfilo. E sul mio Panfilo faccio navigare le parole corroborato da nutrimenti di ogni genere e nazionalità. Nel raggio di un centinaio di metri da casa ho ristoranti vegetariani (il notissimo Joia), indiani, eritrei, coreani, cinesi, pugliesi e pizzerie, rosticcerie libanesi, meneghine e ancora pugliesi, negozietti di cibi andini, indiani, asiatici... Se allungo il passo di poco c'è pure un emporio russo con caviale vero, probabilmente non eccelso ma a buon mercato.
Oggi è il giorno della rosticceria pugliese. Dei pugliesi a Milano ricordo i panzerotti bollenti di Strippoli in piazza Santo Stefano nei primi anni Ottanta con il paiolo carico di leccornie che scendevano dal soffitto e noi, golosi di primo pelo, tutti con il naso all'insù come ad aspettar la grazia... Adesso, nella rosticceria di fronte a casa, i panzerotti sono appena passabili, ma le frittelle di cavolfiore sono meravigliose. Forse un po' untacchiotte, forse un po' grevi, ma infinitamente più autentiche di qualsiasi patatina da fast food... Ne godo nella loro morbida e golosa consistenza, bevendoci insieme un bianco toscano dal lucido colore antico, quel giallo intenso leggermente dorato che prelude ai profumi varietali della Malvasia bianca e del Trebbiano di Toscana. Si chiama Dorellino ed è bianco fresco che sa di compagnia. Sapore profondo, retrogusto amaro, bell'incontro con le frittelle, struttura alcolica da gran signore. Lo produce il Podere Volpaio nella località Spicchio, a Vinci.

Posted by mic.marziani at 08.02.05 19:25

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Ottimo mic, ottimo. Ho la febbre a 39 e petto che sembra sulla graticola. Alla prossima, speriamo presto. Massì, hanno detto che è forte ma veloce. Stacco perchè ho paura di attaccartela. Anzi, attaccarvela. Ciao a tutt*, Matt anchilossato.

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alla tua panfilo!!
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