30.01.05
Il miracolo delle lenticchie di Ventotene
Dall'isoletta di Ventotene, nell'arcipelago pontino, arriva Cristina con un barattolo di lenticchie di Ventotene, minuscoli legumi coltivati dagli anziani abitanti del luogo in microappezzamenti di terreno percorsi dai venti salini del mare... Vanno seguite passo a passo le lenticchie, salvate le piantine non più alte di una spanna dalle erbacce soffocanti, raccolte a giugno, a mano, prima dell'alba: al massimo due, dico due, lenticchie per baccello. Infine battute sulle aie con attrezzi primordiali come il "veville", parola alla francese che indica due bastoni, di legni differenti tra loro, legati da cinghie e manovrato come fosse una danza... Così almeno racconta Cristina, mentre le lenticchie passate in pentola con semplici odori sprigionano profumi di altri tempi, di altri mondi, di altri mari... Un'apoteosi di commoventi sapori lontani mille miglia marine dalle lenticchiacce in scatola o sacchetto dell'ultimo dell'anno. Meravigla da scambio della primogenitura questi frutti dell'isoletta del Tirreno. Le nostre Lenticchie le ha prodotte Attilio Taliercio, poeta, o meglio, come dice lui "inventore di poesie" in quel di Ventotene.
Sopra alle lenticchie, a casa di Michele in quel di Sutri, ci siamo bevuti un vino strano, nato da assemblaggio di uve e di amici, rosso di uve Barbera, Merlot, Sangiovese, provenienti da Piemonte, Veneto e Toscana: il Primovolo 2000 realizzato da Sergio Zingarelli, Giordano Emo Capodilista e Andrea Faccio. Un rosso carezzevole e balsamico, ricco di stoffa e di profumi. Curioso, ma riuscito.
la ricetta per le lenticchie me la diede la mia padrona di casa insieme a un chilo dei presiozi legumi ancora da lavare. si mette tutto a crudo in una pentola di coccio a fuoco bassissimo: lenticchie, olio, peperoncino, sale, pomodori, e molto, molto basilico. a fine cottura l'aglio non ci sarà più, e nemmeno il pomodoro, per non parlare del basilico. saranno rimaste solo le lenticchie ad una densità vicina a quella del cioccolato fuso. aggiungere olio crudo e aggiustate di sale. cederai anche tu la primogenitura. lenticchie e basilico. come ha detto qualcuno "un sapore nella mente di dio".
p.s. inutile provarci con altre lenticchie
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