Appunti di Viaggio: La buona birra delle valli Valdesi

17.01.05

La buona birra delle valli Valdesi

Quello delle birre artigianali è un mondo capace di affascinare quanto quello del vino. Affascina per la freschezza, i profumi, gli aromi di tante birre prodotte per amore e per passione, tenute in vita con la testardaggine di chi non si piega ad un mercato quasi totalmente in mano a un pugno di multinazionali che producono fiumi di birra noiosa e quanto mai standardizzata. Il guizzo si trova nei mocrobirrifici, tra gli artigiani della bevanda alcolica più antica del mondo. C'è qualcosa di una semplicità disarmante, diremmo di casalingo, di fatto a mano, di frugale, quasi, nelle birre Beba, piccola azienda di Villar Perosa in Valchisone, in provincia di Torino.
Si tratta di birre così lontane da quelle del bar sottocasa, non pastorizzate, non filtrate, senza additivi di alcun genere, ma fatte con malto d'orzo, luppolo, lieviti e acqua purissima. Birre realizzate a bassa fermentazione, quindi con tempi lunghi, fatti di giorni e giorni di fermentazione e maturazione. Battezzate con nomi fantasiosi che strappano pure il sorriso e imbottigliate con vistose e colorate etichette, sono birre golose e piacevoli. In alcuni casi anche alcoliche e potenti come la Sangre de Toro, rifermentata in bottiglia, di colore rosso ambrato, profumata di malto, dalla schiuma cremosa, con sentori di zenzero. O come la splendida e corposa Motor Oil, una doppio malto scura, forte nel gusto e profonda nel colore. Buona, ghiotta, fresca è invece la leggera N.1, ottima interpretazione della birra quotidiana, della pilsner dissetante. Un'ulteriore conferma di quanto di buono, anzi di ottimo, sanno fare oggi i piccoli birrifici italiani, con quelli piemontesi in prima fila. Da assaggiare.

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Comments

E cosa ne pensi della birreria Le Baladin di Piozzo (CN)? La conosci?

ciao
nick

Posted by: Nick at 18.01.05 07:10

Delle birre Le Baladin, delle quali ho scritto tante volte, penso tutto il bene possibile e anche di più... Quando scrivevo qui sopra di birrifici piemontesi pensavo, oltre alla Beba, proprio a loro.

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"Democracy", una canzone di Leonard Coehn, ad un certo punto dice: "... quando l'acol diventa visionario". Ripeto, io sono astemio per motivi di salute da un po' di anni, ma ricordo molto volentieri le sbornie secche di birra e altro che mi hanno rovinato il fegato e mi hanno regalato estensioni situazionali e dimensionali sublimi. Quando apri i condotti, e qui so che sto scrivendo cose che non dovrei scrivere, il corpo si apre come quando i pori della pelle subiscono un caldo tropicale quasi irresistibile. Il calore lungo il collo e la sensazione di essere al riparo per un po' è netta. Il tempo si dilata come ogni sensazione, e più si vive in tempi di sparlamento come questi, più la dilatazione degli effetti è congrua e ci sta proprio tutta. Quando stai al quinto Negroni (cocktail frai più popolari e fra quelli che fanno più male), non è più una semplice bevuta fra amici o da soli (ahimè) ma s'inscena una dinamica capace di tirar fuori tutto il pathos incapsulato nella nostra anima. Eppure è un dramma, il bere e francamente non me la sento di ironizzare su questo tema. Semplicemente vorrei scrivere esperienze dirette e pensieri in cui credo. Ciò che noto è come non ci si scandalizza più del dramma scandaloso di 40mila morti solo in Italia all'anno per cause alcol correlate (dati Oms). Ma vedo che sto prendendo una brutta piega (trita e ritrita, oltre che bacchettona) e allora è meglio che mi fermi, perchè tutti sappiamo quanto sia stupido e cinico il proibizionismo sulle "droghe" leggere e la libertà pressochè assoluta sugli alcolici. Come vedete la verità è cangiante. Non ha linee rette, direttorie manicheistiche, ma percorre sentieri e rivoli che si nascondono sotto varie forme di vissuto e non di manuale o equazioni. Insomma, nella vita, quasi mai due più due fa quattro. Venti, otto, tre, diciotto. Dipende dalla verità. Infine, se qualche frequentatore di questo blog ha avuto notizia di una perosna morta per Cannabis, me lo venga a dire o scrivere. Le chiederò subito scusa di questo post. 40mila morti all'anno per abuso di sostanze alcoliche... Matt.

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