Appunti di Viaggio: L'eleganza contadina dell'Amarone Aldegheri

07.12.04

L'eleganza contadina dell'Amarone Aldegheri

Fino all'ultimo sorso non si riesce a mettere le briglie all'Amarona della Valpolicella Classico 1999 Aldegheri. E' vino prodotto da un'azienda non piccola, ma di tradizione, in quel di Sant'Ambrogio di Valpolicella dove l'Amarone è di casa. E questa è proprio una bottiglia di quelle classiche, tradizionali, che non strizza l'occhio al gusto internazionale come fanno molti moderni amaroni. L'appassimento delle uve (Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara e altre varietà) sui graticci fino alla pigiatura tardiva, a febbraio e il lungo invecchiamento in legno grande (con una piccola percentuale in barrique), si sentono tutti al naso con la potenza delle amarene sotto spirito che la nonna tirava fuori per gli ospiti importanti, la prugna, la liquirizia, il cuoio, le spezie... E poi all'occhio è vino denso, di un rosso scuro, quasi viola, ricco di polpa che in bocca si fa dolce e forte fino a trovare un punto d'equilibrio in un vino grandissimo come l'Amarone, ma per nulla facile. In bilico tra dolcezza e freschezza nella possenza di ben 15 gradoni alcolici. Dicono sia rosso da carni, da arrosti, selvaggina, formaggi stravecchi e piccanti. Per me è vino da bere con gli amici, da perdersi a pensare tra le chiacchiere, da meditare a fine pasto o come adesso, davanti alla tastiera, a far correre davanti le immagini delle leggere colline veronesi dove nasce questo vino di eleganza contadina, un vero gentiluomo di campagna.

Nella foto le uve di Amarone e di Recioto in appassimento.

Posted by mic.marziani at 07.12.04 00:40

Comments

Che venga un colpo a Berlusconi se scherzo: ma chi avrebbe mai immaginato tanta fiorenza nella vinicoltura? Davvero, le cannelle bollite, il mosto mostato (che non so che vuol dire, come del resto molte altre cose che scriverò), la Giacca delle Langhe, il Restaccio di Pian Caturcio in provimcia di Udine, la passitura a secco, il contorno fruttato nel riversamento, le uve di Amarone e di Recioto in appassimento, i vitigni bassi, il Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryè 200" Donna fugata, le raccolte di tardive per vini destinati all'infinito, contenitori specifici per la degustazione. Per amare tutte queste cose bisogna essere dei sottili amanti del piacere, oppure degli avinazzati come Bukowski. Per me, se non fossi astemio, varrebe "la seconda che ho detto". MaTt.

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Beh, a me piace un vinello della bassa parmense descritto da Guareschi in qualcuno dei suoi libri . Si chiama Fortanella , è rosso, poco alcolico e dolce . Con torta fritta e spalla cotta ne berrei a litri. E la mia cultura " enologa " finisce qui.

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