Appunti di Viaggio: I Panda del vino

13.11.04

I Panda del vino

Il Nebbiolo è l'uva del nord. L'antico vitigno dal quale nascono i vini rossi più nobili e famosi del Piemonte. Con le uve di Nebbiolo, nella cittadina di Barolo e in altri dieci comuni della provincia di Cuneo, si produce il Barolo, "il re dei vini, il vino dei re". E sempre nelle zone collinari piemontesi a sud del fiume Po, nelle Langhe, nasce anche il Barbaresco, vino dalla fama crescente, prodotto anch'esso da uve Nebbiolo.
Ma con le stesse viti, a ridosso delle Alpi, a nord del Po, dove spesso le colline sono antiche morene, si producono vini meno famosi, ma spesso assai più curiosi e interessanti. Senza pensare alla lombarda Valtellina, solo per restare in Piemonte, si possono citare il Carema ai confini tra la provincia di Torino, il Lessona e il Bramaterra nel Biellese, il sommo Gattinara lungo la sponda vercellese del Sesia... E poi i rossi novaresi: il grande Ghemme dalla storia antica, il Boca, il Fara, il Sizzano tanto caro al conte di Cavour... Vini prodotti tutti con uve Nebbiolo che però, da sempre, in queste terre si chiama Spanna.
"Molti di questi vini, seppur tutelati dal marchio Doc (Denominazione d'origine controllata) e dalla più prestigiosa Docg (Denominazione d'origine controllata e garantita), sono praticamente in via di estinzione, quasi dei 'Panda' nel mondo del vino", dice il mio amico e giornalista novarese Riccardo Milan.

Ho stappato di recente due meraviglie del novarese: il Ghemme Collis Carellae 1997 degli Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo e il Ghemme 1998 dei Fratelli Rovellotti. Nel primo ho trovato tutta l'eleganza del territorio e la pulizia del lavoro in vigna e in cantina del produttore, Alberto Arlunno, nel secondo la violetta, profumo caratteristico di questi vini, è esplosiva, sinfonica. Sono vini da andare a cercare dove li fanno perché in enoteca sono rari, ma fanno impallidire gran parte dei Barolo e dei Barbaresco che ci sono in giro.

Nella foto di Davide Dutto i fratelli Paolo e Antonello Rovellotti, produttori di Ghemme.

Posted by mic.marziani at 13.11.04 22:51

Comments

In quale regno o secolo e sotto quale tacita
congiunzione di astri, in che giorno segreto
non segnato dal marmo, nacque la fortunata
e singolare idea di inventare l’allegria?
con autunni dorati fu inventata. Ed il vino
fluisce rosso lungo mille generazioni
come il fiume del tempo e nell’arduo cammino
ci fa dono di musica, di fuoco e di leoni.

Nella notte del giubilo e nell’infausto giorno
esalta l’allegria o attenua la paura,
e questo ditirambo nuovo che oggi gli canto
lo intonarono un giorno l’arabo e il persiano.
vino, insegnami come vedere la mia storia
quasi fosse già fatta cenere di memoria.

Jorge Luis Borges.

Io sono astemio invece, nel senso che per motivi personazli non posso più bere aòcun tipoodi alcolico, ma vi assicuro che mi farei una bevuta di quelle rotolanti. Non mischierei vino, birra, gin, negroni, margarida, tequila boom boom o campari, berrei torvo come un fiscalista un tipo di bevanda. Sono anni che non provo più quella bellissima sensazione visionaria che l'alcol regala se assunto in dosi accettabili. Lo ammetto, mi manca. Matt

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